Once upon a time in Ilocos

Popularly known as “abel iloko”, abel is a fabric weave indigenous of the Ilocos region. It has been referred to as a “sacred” weave passed on from generation to generation of Ilocano handloom weavers. Abel is made from cotton through the traditional handloom used by expert Ilocano weavers. Abel weaving follows a very intricate process - from preparing and dyeing the yarn, to arranging different colors of yarn to produce the desired design, and operating the wooden handloom with the synchronized movement of both hands and feet. In history books, the production of abel as a cottage industry, started when Juan Jose Ruperto de Cuellar was appointed in 1798 as Alcalde Mayor of the Ilocos province. One of Cuellar’s major assignments was to encourage cotton weaving, which he accomplished as he promoted the planting of cotton as a major agricultural crop. Paoay town produced the most abel among the towns of Amianan or Northern Ilocos dating back to pre-Spanish period. Abel Iloko was traditionally used for blankets, mosquito nets, pillowcases, linens and other household garments but Paoay weavers became more creative in the interpretation of various designs, some of which depicted industries like fish for fishing and corn for farming. There were also grape designs on napkins, tablecloths and throw pillows, the designs of which were from Spanish origin as they were associated with the wine used by priests in the celebration of the Holy Mass. But at a 23″ width, the abel’s loom is narrow and can be quite a tricky material for designers. Efforts are now underway to produce a bigger and wider loom. In the entire region, abel weaving remains a cottage industry, the skill and art of which are passed on to generations. However, the refusal of hte younger generation to learn the craft has led doomsayers to predict the dying of the industry.

The redefining of the craft

A growing interest in abel as a fashion and clothing staple started during the centennial celebration of Philippine independence in 1998. In line with its programs to reinvent and reinvigorate the art of abel weaving, the Provincial Government of Ilocos Sur along with fashion afficionados in Manila drew up bullish efforts to push for wide spread use of the hand woven fabric. A series of fashion shows, exhibits, work ships and trade showings were presented and the rebirth of a dying industry is well on its way. From the lowly placemats and blankets, it has resurfaced as a versatile fabric like abel pina, abel silk, and abel cotton to name a few. Much as abel product lines have progressed from the past to the present, its colors have also become updated to more acceptable tones from the early prints of bright red, blue and green, today’s colors comes in range of pastels, earth colors and acid brights. The fabric is now used for elegant barongs, fancy evening gowns and formal wear. Of course creations by renowned fashion designers from the region like Danny dela Cuesta, Edgar Madamba, and Gregg Centeno is favorable to the movement. The Abel Iloko is now exported to some parts of Europe, as well as the United States and Japan where most of the product lines have been visible in house wares and accessories sold in mainstream department stores. Even DKNY has used abel collection in its stocks of spa accessories like bed covers, pillows, towels among others.